Author: abbie3802

  • Diverse Theatre in the City- How the Rise in Multiculturalism And Diversity Changed London Theatre:

    Diverse Theatre in the City- How the Rise in Multiculturalism And Diversity Changed London Theatre:

    Introduction-

    If there’s one you can say about London, it’s undeniably a city of the arts. From hundreds of internationally renowned museums (Sound of Life, 2023) to world-class television (Turner, 2017), the city’s art scene holds important significance in forming the city’s identity. But London theatre is a special case that directly mirrors the city’s constantly evolving social and political landscape.

    Since Shakespeare’s time, theatre in London has been a platform for actors to voice their perspectives on life around them through biting satire or powerful dramatics. But as time has progressed, theatre in the city has arguably become one of the most vital platforms for marginalised groups to share and dramatize their own experiences within life in and beyond London, mirroring the city’s rise in multiculturalism in the modern day.

    Indeed, London theatre is no longer just a white man’s playground, yet the reaction to this can often be egregious in a way that reflects the divisive world we live in today. In a way, London theatre directly reflects how race is seen and treated in the city, especially after multiculturalism became a defining characteristic during the mid-20th century.

    Pre 20th Century Oppression-

    Given how theatre in London has been around since the 16th century, it’s no surprise that there is a dramatic difference between the approach of multiculturalism and race in particular. London’s population at the beginning of theatre in the city (the 1500s) was only 50,000 (Porter, 2016) and even though the ethnic population of London was poorly documented, it is not hard to guess that those who did live during this period were treated abhorrently. However, Tudor-era theatre did see some (at the time) progressive themes regarding multicultural integration and white supremacy.

    Shakespeare’s Othello was one of the first pieces of Theatre to truly show a black protagonist in a sympathetic light, with Shakespeare characterising him as a charming and rational man corrupted by another’s lies and manipulation. This is in severe contrast to the short story the play was based on which presents as truly irredeemable because of his race, showing there was some pushback to the racist rhetoric at the time expressed through theatre. Developments like this would help usher in black performers emerging during the 19th century, including Ira Aldridge who was arguably the first black actor to break into mainstream England thanks to his work in Shakespeare including Othello (Bursby, 2020). As one of the first prominent black theatre actors, his impact is undeniable and has been widely acknowledged both in and outside London theatre.  Famous actor Lolita Chakrabarti, who wrote the play Red Velvet about Aldridge, put it best saying  “To know that Ira Aldridge was here almost 200 years ago and that he defied everything that society set down for him… He shouldn’t have been an actor. He was a black man. He should have either been a slave or, perhaps, a preacher. But he defied all that and he loved the theatre, and he loved Shakespeare, and he did it. And to have done that when the expectation was so low, I think he’s an inspiration for people now, but I think he also goes before all of us and we all stand on his shoulders.” (Chakrabarti, 2020).

    Ira Aldridge Portrait, painted in 1848. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

    Othello and Aldridge were seemingly outliers during this period, however. Many plays depicted cultures outside of England (and Europe in general) as ones to be feared or mocked, often in a way that upheld the colonialist and Eurocentric views that were prevalent during this period. Even Aldridge himself received numerous racially motivated attacks during his time, including one London critic citing that due to his race, “it is utterly impossible for him to pronounce English,” (Wilcox, 2016). John Dryden’s 1664 play ’ The Indian Queen’ and its 1665 sequel ‘The Indian Emperour’ are both harrowing examples of this, romanticising Britain’s colonial rule over India and colonialism in general as a political necessity (Hutner, 2001). This isn’t to mention that every non-white character was either portrayed as stereotypes or, in the case of the Indian princess, fetishised completely for the male gaze. Again, attitudes like this were rampant in London and England/Europe as a whole thanks to colonialism and slavery, but it doesn’t change the fact that the representation of minorities during this period was and is completely abhorrent and a dark shadow that looms over London theatre to this day.

    20th Century Change-

    The dawn of the 20th century saw notable changes when multiculturalism in London truly began to flourish. Thanks to the rise in immigration and the Windrush generation, London became renowned for being one of the most culturally diverse cities in Europe and the theatre reflected that too. Even before such events began, 1928 saw the groundbreaking musical ‘Showboat’ premiere at the Drury Lane. The show was one of the first to tackle racial segregation openly and featured renowned actor and civil rights campaigner Paul Roberson in the starring role.

    By the mid-20th century, the growth of civil rights and similar political movements in the capital meant shows were no longer afraid to be more overtly political. This coincided with the countercultural movement of the 60s, an era characterised by liberalism and alternative living that went against the establishment of the day (Osgerby 2022). 1968’s Hair was one of the first to truly reflect the city’s new era, a direct exploration of hot-button topics of the day such as war, drugs and interracial relationships, and is still seen as an important piece of theatre history due to its openness to such issues (Lee, 2018).

    Its run at the Shaftesbury Theatre left an indisputable impact on the industry, paving the way for more alternative shows and musicals including 1977’s ’Bubbling Brown Sugar’, which was one of the first pieces of theatre written by black talent. Because of this representation both on stage and behind the scenes, the black representation in the show was more earnest and wasn’t riddled with stereotypes like ‘showboat’ decades prior (Dietz, 2015). Progress was slowly being made in theatre spaces with more opportunities for non-white performers and writers, including the likes of Caryl Phillips and Michael Abbensetts. The end of the century saw shows like The Lion King take the West End by storm and featured a majority black cast at the forefront, and this would only continue in the decades to come.

    With that being said, bigotry was still rampant throughout the city, more so before immigration started to boom during the 50s (Knittel, n.d). Before the Racial Relations Act of 1968, it was increasingly difficult for non-white actors to achieve any kind of career in the industry thanks to the rampant bigotry not being controlled. Because of this, no theatre at the time was able to present truly authentic representations of minorities leading to regurgitated stereotypes and tropes. This includes the frequent use of makeup by white actors to portray different races, whether that was the minstrel shows of the 30s and 40s (Lawson, 2012) to Jonathan Pryce’s offensive portrayal of a half-Vietnamese character in ‘Miss Saigon’. Practices like these were normalised due to the lack of care and attention given to minority workers in the industry and a lack of acknowledgement of their views and objections. Because of this, it’s safe to assume that many minorities felt less inclined to break into the industry. Even those who were able to break into the industry admit to being normalised to racist practices. Jon Jon Briones, an ensemble member of the original London production of Miss Saigon, said that he didn’t see an issue with the yellowface at the time as film and TV desensitised him to it (Paulson, 2017). It would take the dawn of a new century for these archaic ways to truly be challenged as London entered into a new and divisive era.

    21st-century revolt:

    Compared to the beginning of the 20th century, diversity and race within London are almost night and day. The impact of the Racial Relations Act and immigration made London a much more welcoming and cultural place and that extends to its theatre industry. ‘Colour Blind’ casting became increasingly more common with shows like Wicked, which had its three leads played by people of colour in 2023 (Gans, 2023). Diverse shows like Hamilton gained momentous popularity and praise, including winning 7 Oliviers in 2018 (Brown, 2018). This would coincide with the trend of race-swapping certain roles in Shakespeare productions, most notably Romeo and Juliet at the Duke Of York Theatre in 2024 and a musical reimagining in 2019 (Harmon, 2023). Leaps in diversity have also been seen behind the scenes. Indhu Rubasingham, for one, has become one of the most powerful names in theatre today. Her acclaimed leadership of the national theatre has seen it become a juggernaut of the industry thanks to shows such as The Motive and the Cue and the West End Transfer of Hadestown (Crompton, 2024). Black British theatre company Talawa Theatre Company have also had the opportunity to stage and produce their productions in London including Running With Lion in 2022, which was praised for being ‘potent and haunting’ (Akbar, 2022).

    Despite this progress, it’s clear that racism and prejudice haven’t disappeared entirely. The 2016 Brexit referendum had a significant impact on racism as hate crimes rose 15-25% in its aftermath and effects can still be felt almost a decade later (Sprigg et al, 2024). It can be argued that Brexit has enabled people to be more open with their bigotry knowing that others share their sentiments. A Notable example of this within the industry include the reaction to the casting of Francesca Amewudah-Rivers as Juliet in 2024, with Francesca admitting she didn’t feel safe at work (McNab, 2024). Just in December last year, black cast members of the Only Fools And Horses Musical were targeted by racist hecklers during a performance (Rosseinsky, 2024). Events such as this may be why more than 70% of black theatre professionals find diversity initiatives purely just symbolic and don’t ignite actual change (Chambers, 2024)

    But it’s important to note that these events don’t define the industry. Theatre in London has been more vocal than ever regarding race because of such events, with many using their platform and personal experiences to good use. This became even more apparent when Black Lives Matter began to gain huge momentum in 2020 and thus black writers and performers became more confident in expressing the racism and harassment faced by them. Playwright Roy Williams is a leading example of someone using his experiences within the city to challenge perspectives and start discussions surrounding race. ‘Death In England- Delroy’ is probably the most potent example of this, examining the main character Michael’s crisis as he examines his self-identity in London’s multicultural landscape (Akbar, 2024). Williams’ focus on the realities of race in modern city life makes his work the personification of modern London theatre.

    Paapa Essiedu In ‘Death Of England- Delroy’ At Soho Place In 2024

    Conclusion-

    In summary, the increase in diversity within London has greatly changed its theatre industry by broadening the scope and perspectives of stories being told, pushing the industry to new horizons. From 20th-century pioneers like Ira Aldridge to modern trailblazers like Roy Williams, London theatre has transformed into a cultural melting pot allowing marginalised groups to express and share experiences directly linked to life in the city. But these changes reflect the cultural shift in London and its status as a diverse city redefining what the city is and how life has changed and evolved, which are regular themes explored in the modern theatre today. No matter what challenges the city and the industry face, London Theatre will be there to challenge and uplift the diverse community it’s built.

    Written By Abbie Matthews

    Bibliography-

    Akbar, A. (2024) Death of England: The Plays review – Brexit-voting bailiff electrifies this post-Boris revamp, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/stage/article/2024/jul/31/death-of-england-the-plays-review-brexit-voting-bailiff-electrifies-this-post-boris-revamp

    Akbar, A. (2022) Running With Lions review – grief haunts a British Caribbean family, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2022/feb/16/running-with-lions-review-grief-british-caribbean-family-sian-carter-lyric-hammersmith

    Barriball, James (2011) ‘HAiR 1968 (London Cast)’, YouTube, Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VagFIPJwTxA

    Billington, M. (2016). Love review – engrossing homelessness drama leaves us enraged, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2016/dec/14/love-review-homelessness-drama-alexander-zeldin-dorfman-national-theatre

    Busby, D. (2020) The history of Black Theatre in Britain – the mancunion, Manchester University Mancunion Newspaper. Available at: https://mancunion.com/2020/10/16/the-history-of-black-theatre-in-britain/

    Chambers, Kate (2024) Wake-up call: Black theatre workers facing ‘structural and systemic challenges’, The Stage. Available at: https://www.thestage.co.uk/news/wake-up-call-black-theatre-workers-facing-structural-and-systemic-challenges

    Chakrabarti, L. (2020) Lolita Chakrabarti on Ira Aldridge, The Old Vic. Available at: https://www.oldvictheatre.com/stories/lolita-chakrabarti-on-ira-aldridge/

    Clifton-Sprigg, j., Vujic, S., & Carr, J. (2024) Did the vote for Brexit lead to a rise in hate crime?, Economic Observatory. Available at: https://www.economicsobservatory.com/did-the-vote-for-brexit-lead-to-a-rise-in-hate-crime

    Crompton, S. (2024) Meet Indhu Rubasingham, Now the Most Powerful Woman in British Theater, Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/indhu-rubasingham-national-theatre-profile

    Death of England: Delroy Tickets, Lonodn Theatre. Available at: https://www.londontheatre.co.uk/show/41045-death-of-england-delroy

    Dietz, D.  (2015). “Bubbling Brown Sugar”. The Complete Book of 1970s Broadway Musicals. Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. ISBN 9781442251663.

    Foster, T. (2023). New play takes a stab against gentrification, Socialist Worker. Available at: https://socialistworker.co.uk/reviews-and-culture/new-play-takes-a-stab-against-gentrification/

    Gads, A. (2023) Lucy St. Louis and Alexia Khadime Make History in London’s Wicked Beginning March 7, Playbill. Available at: https://playbill.com/article/lucy-st-louis-and-alexia-khadime-make-history-in-londons-wicked-beginning-march-7

    Gardner, L. (2014). Beyond Caring review – compelling exploration of zero-hours working, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2014/jul/07/beyond-caring-review-zero-hours-contracts

    Harmon, S. (2023) ‘Theatre and pop at its absolute excess’: William Shakespeare meets Britney Spears as & Juliet comes to Australia, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2023/feb/21/theatre-and-pop-at-its-absolute-excess-the-broadway-hit-that-asks-what-if-juliet-just-got-on-with-it

    Ira Aldridge as Othello in ‘Othello’ by William Shakespeare’, Victoria And Albert Museum. Available at: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O85046/ira-aldridge-as-othello-in-painting-unknown/

    Knittle, A. (n.d) 1950’s and 1960’s in London. Available at: https://www.kgs-tornesch.de/dokumente/upload/London%20Texte%20Un/1950%E2%80%99s%20and%201960%E2%80%99s%20in%20London.pdf

    Lawson, M. (2012). Theatre should turn its back on blackface, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2012/oct/23/good-riddance-blackface-mark-lawson

    Lee, S. (2018). Hair: The musical that ‘changed theatre forever’, BBC News. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-45625785

    McKie, J. (2016). Why musical Show Boat stays afloat. BBC News. Available at https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-35964077

    McKnab. K. (2024) Romeo & Juliet’s Francesca Amewudah-Rivers Received Death Threats, Months of Racist Abuse: ‘I Didn’t Feel Safe at Work’, Teen Vogue. Available at: https://www.teenvogue.com/story/romeo-and-juliet-francesca-amewudah-rivers-received-death-threats-racist-abuse-i-didnt-feel-safe-at-work

    Osgerby, B. (2022) Swinging sixties: From sharp mods to counterculture, Museum of Youth Culture. Available at: https://www.museumofyouthculture.com/teen-intro-four/

    Parker, A. (2024). The D word: what now for diversity and inclusion in theatre?, The Stage. Available at: https://www.thestage.co.uk/long-reads/the-d-word-what-now-for-diversity-and-inclusion-in-theatre

    Paulson, M. (2017) The Battle of ‘Miss Saigon’: Yellowface, Art and Opportunity, The New York Times. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/03/17/theater/the-battle-of-miss-saigon-yellowface-art-and-opportunity.html

    Porter, S. (2016). Everyday Life in Tudor London. Stroud, Gloucestershire: Amberley Publishing. p. 9.

    Rosseinsky, K. (2024) Only Fools and Horses Musical stars ‘visibly upset’ after racist abuse from crowd, The Independent. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/theatre-dance/news/only-fools-and-horses-musical-racist-abuse-b2669482.html

    Sound of Life (2023) London has it all as a cultural hub, Sound of Life. Available at: https://www.soundoflife.com/blogs/places/art-city-london

    Turner, J. (2017) What future for studios, Stage Screen And Radio. Available at: https://members.bectu.org.uk/advice-resources/library/2249#:~:text=The%20capital’s%20world%2Dclass%20crew,studio%20space%20is%20incredibly%20high

    Wilcox, Z. (2016) The actor who overcame prejudice to win over audiences, BBC. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/5KBbcBqysXWg0QrmsCR47fl/the-actor-who-overcame-prejudice-to-win-over-audiences

  • Rebel 30 Years of London Fashion- A Dazzling Showcase of The Importance of Creativity:

    Rebel 30 Years of London Fashion- A Dazzling Showcase of The Importance of Creativity:

    Most will argue that the design museum’s latest immersive exhibition couldn’t have arrived at a better time. ‘Rebel- 30 Years of London Fashion’, a collaboration between the design museum and the British Fashion Council (Lewin & Mower, 2023), pays tribute to the country’s modern fashion revolution at a time when funds for the arts are at a distressing low (Khomami, 2022). Despite recent hardships, the exhibit aims to reflect how ‘creativity is the superpower of this country’ (Turner, 2023). Curators Sarah Mower and Rebecca Lewin’s vision was to evoke the rebellious and underground nightlife culture that these designs were highly influenced by (Hess, 2023). From this perspective, I believe Mower and Lewin’s creation effectively portrays this period with flying colours.

    Colourful Greetings and McQueen’s Legacy-

    After being greeted by flashy screens of a variety of catwalk shows, my first impression of the exhibit was of fascination. ‘Colour Explosion’ helps to demonstrate the way vibrant colour has been used as a symbol of revolting against the drabness of city life, as a result of the recession in the early 90s (Lewin & Mower, 2023). While these bombastic designs speak for themselves, what makes this section particularly enticing are the coordinating backgrounds paired alongside them. From Richard Quinn’s signature floral pattern pairing perfectly with his metallic creation from his debut 2018 collection to Louise Gray’s chaotic collection of fabrics and sketches matching superbly with her sense of DIY maximalism. All six mannequins successfully allow visitors to go into the minds of these designers through cohesive curation.

    After a linear timeline of the UK cultural zeitgeist from the 90s to now, a small circular room instantly caught my attention. This room was a small exploration into the works of Alexander McQueen; from the clothes themselves to the gay nightlife that gave him his creative spark. McQueen himself was one of the first recipients of the BFC’s own ‘NEWGEN’ scheme, created to support designers at a time when the UK was in economic distress (‘The British Fashion Council’, 2016). With this in mind, the room and his brand’s sponsorship of the exhibit could not have been more appropriate and the effort from Mower and Lewin clearly shows. From his signature monochromatic colour scheme to his out-of-the-box creations, everything screams signature McQueen making it recognisable to even those unfamiliar with his works. Even more interesting than the works themselves are the flyers and photos on the wall beside them, all of which paint a vivid picture of the city’s nightlife that had an evident impact on who McQueen would become.

    Alexander McQueen Collection On Display.

    ‘Art School’ And NEWGEN-

    Just opposite of McQueen’s room came Mower and Lewin’s celebration of the designers of today with ‘Art School’. While the exterior’s drab white exterior may seem unappealing at first glance, it can be interpreted that this was entirely Mower and Lewin’s intent, a mundane school-like interior housing fantastical creations paralleling many an art school across the city. Inside these monotone white walls house some of the exhibit’s most visually exciting garments, all coming from recent graduates from the aforementioned NEWGEN scheme (Lewin & Mower, 2023).

    Not only are the garments incredibly detailed and bursting with individual flair, but some even have recognisable origins that even those outside the fashion world can recognise. From SS Daley’s oceanic flared trousers seen on Harry Styles’ Golden cover to Molly Goddard’s flowy blue tulle gown worn by Rihanna, it’s a clear sign that success after university life is still achievable despite the government’s continual neglect of the arts (Reyburn & Shaw, 2023). Each wall circling the designs is decorated with quotes all relating to a desire for more, a willingness for success in the outside world which anyone can relate to and empathise with. This helps to create a sense of reliability in an area otherwise dominated by the outlandish and surreal. Mower’s background working with education institutes and her ideology that education brings out individuality brings a sense of nuance and respect to the room that none of the others possess (Hess, 2023).

    Concept Illustrations and Sketches Found in The Art School Section.

    Club Life and The Nightlife Revolution-

    Across the corridor of the art school came its more punk and daring counterpart. ‘Club Scene’ arguably contains the exhibit’s most recognisable creations including Bjork’s divisive swan look from the Oscars and Sam Smith’s balloon bodysuit from the Brits. It can be easy for the other looks to fade into the background besides these two titans of rebellious fashion, but Mower and Lewin cleverly chose vivid and striking outfits that clash well with the previous two’s monochrome colour schemes. Charles Jeffrey’s lobster gown in particular is a true feast for the eyes- the classic silhouette decorated with graphic illustrations can easily symbolise the punk movement itself- reinventing elements of the past to rebel against the status quo of the present. Recognition also has to be given to the hair and makeup on the mannequins curated by NEWGEN alumn Nasir Mazhar (Davidson, 2023); the addition of similar graphic faces added some much-needed unity to the designs almost as if they’re from the same collection.

    Whilst examining the mannequins, I noticed the thrashing sounds of techno garage coming from the room next door. The accompanying curtain took us into a scree room featuring archival footage from the clubs of the 90s where the clubbing scene burst into popularity. While some may dismiss using these films as lazy and superficial, I feel that it was the best approach to convey that era to modern audiences. The graininess of the footage coupled with the noisy music that defined the era conveys the uniqueness of said era more than any recreation ever could. Although it would have been nice to have seen some sort of theming or decoration around the room to enrich the experience.

    Charles Jeffrey Lobster Dress on Display

     Catwalks And Change-Makers-

    After ‘Backstage Pass’, featuring various accessories and Instagram makeup filters, it felt as though the exhibit had reached its peak. Not to say the aforementioned room had any horrible qualities and was visually unappealing, but it felt as though Mower and Lewin were relying far too much on trendy gimmicks rather than letting the art speak for itself. Although the filters did lead to some comical results.

    With that being said, I found the runway section next door to be a return to form. Not only was the set-up highly immersive and atmospheric, but the collections on display showcased a more polished side of the rebellious movement while holding onto the same spirit. Featuring flashy lighting and projected screens, Mower aimed to ‘let audiences experience the same chills as those who saw the runways at the time’ (Hess, 2023).  While it may be impossible to recapture that fanatic spark completely, I do think their effort to do so clearly shows creating a successful final product. From the colourful and diverse collections, the detailed sketches passing me by and the photo wall at the back; it felt like walking through the creative process from concept to fashion week.

    With this return to form, my expectations were high for the last room as a satisfying end to my experience. Unfortunately, that did not happen.  While ‘Change-Makers’ did display some interesting designs and examples of new-age 3d printing fashion, I felt as though the room lacked an obvious flowing theme that connected these looks. Every other room felt like garments were purposefully put there to build upon the visual narrative and were a clear visual representation of a sector of London rebel fashion. With ‘Change-Makers’ however, I needed additional context to understand what the room was trying to convey (that being showcasing female designers), which for a visual experience is a negative sign.  At the very least, the gift shop next door helped to levitate my disappointment with a nicely themed assortment of collectables and merch.

    Designer collections are displayed in the runway section.

    Conclusion-

    In summary, I would consider ‘Rebel- 30 years of London fashion’ to be a solid success as a celebration of the past and present of London’s counterculture and the people who defined it and reinventing it today. Mower and Lewin have successfully been able to tell the tale of the designers who changed London’s fashion landscape thanks to their immersive curation that crafted an engaging visual story. From the video screens to historical artefacts, each element came together to create a visual and audio treat that allowed me to see just how talented and inspiring this new multicultural generation of designers is.

    However, as someone already interested in fashion history, I may have gotten more out of the exhibit than those who lack any interest. This was proven by a group of friends I went to the exhibit with who all found the experience ‘rather mundane and boring’, especially compared to the more luxurious Gucci Cosmos we visited earlier on. This may mean the experience lacks universal appeal and can only be enjoyed by those with a prior interest in fashion. This isn’t to mention my grievances with the exhibit, such as the lack of context for some areas and a disappointing final section that lacked identity.

    Overall, at a time when the art industry (Khomami, 2022) and education sector (Reyburn & Shaw, 2023) are in an unfortunate decline, it’s wonderful to see such a poignant reminder of its importance to London’s culture that’s accessible to anyone of all cultures and generations. Not only did Mower achieve her goal of evoking London’s culture to the audience (Hess, 2023), but I truly think her and Lewin’s collaborative effort will inspire NEWGEN’s next wave of success stories in the not-too-distant future.

    Written By Abbie Matthews

    Bibliography-

    • Davidson, C. (2023) Inside the immersive exhibition ‘Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion’, Shift London. Available at: https://www.shiftlondon.org/fashion/a-look-into-the-immersive-rebel-30-years-of-london-fashion/

    • Hess, L. (2023) Inside a new exhibition celebrating 30 years of Newgen and the irrepressible energy of London Fashion, Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/rebel-30-years-of-london-fashion-design-museum-london

    • Khomami, N. (2022) Arts funding cuts ‘cultural vandalism’, says Juliet Stevenson, at DCMS protest, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2022/nov/22/arts-council-england-cuts-are-cultural-vandalism-says-juliet-stevenson

    • Lewin, R. & Mower, S. (2023). Rebel- 30 Years of London Fashion (Exhibition of Fashion and Design). Exhibited at the design museum September 16th 2023-11th February 2024.

    • Reyburn, S. and Shaw, A. (2023) Private sector picks up the pieces as UK government cuts art education funding, The Art Newspaper – International art news and events. Available at: https://www.theartnewspaper.com/2023/09/19/private-sector-uk-government-cuts-art-education-funding

    • The British Fashion Council – Google Arts & Culture (2016) Google. Available at: https://artsandculture.google.com/story/the-british-fashion-council-british-fashion-council/DgVBhh8FFEpCJw?hl=en

    • Turner, F.S. (ed.) (2023) Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion Exhibition debuts at the Design Museum, YouTube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPOd27I09LA&t=7s

    • All photos in the review were photographed by me.